The relatively inexpensive, garment-friendly approach is to use a bonded lining. After a low-grade bonded lining suit has been worn for a while, the fabric and the fabric of the suit will no longer fit together and pull each other in another direction. A good lining should be made of a natural material like wool, linen, or horsehair, so that when the fabric and the fabric of the suit are running around, they can have a limited amount of travel while helping them to reset. A good suit should have a good lining on which the barge can be hand-stitched, and only then the suit can be placed there with the chest as three-dimensional and curved as the armor. But such a lining is never cheap.
구조
Although there are many factors that determine the quality of the material used, the price of the fabric now mainly lies in the origin, the price difference between domestic fabrics and imported fabrics is huge, and imported fabrics are mainly concentrated in Italy and the United Kingdom. Whether you use domestic fabrics or imported fabrics, the composition is basically wool, of course, will include other ingredients, such as cashmere, but high-quality fabrics are used natural fabrics rather than synthetic materials, remind you need to remember that sometimes it is written cashmere, but the quality level is very different. Usually the domestic fabrics are reasonably priced in the custom stores in China, and certainly the cheapest, which is why we see some ready-to-wear suits for less than 200 RMB.
Identification of pure wool fabric
Pure wool fabric has natural and soft color, good warmth effect, and is the first choice for making high-grade suits and coats. But now there are more and more imitation wool fabrics, with the improvement of textile technology, it has reached a level that most customers can hardly identify, but the color, warmth, feel, etc. are still far from pure wool fabrics. Here are a few ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when selecting garments and fabrics.
1 Hand touch feeling
Pure wool fabrics usually feel soft and smooth, long wool fabrics feel soft and smooth with the hair, against the hair has a tingling feeling. And blended or pure chemical fiber products, some are not soft, some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.
2 Look at the color and luster
The color of pure wool fabric is natural and soft, bright and no old feeling. In contrast, blended or pure chemical fiber fabrics have dark luster or shiny feeling.
3 Look at the elasticity
Use your hand to defend the material tightly, and then let go immediately to see the elasticity of the fabric. Pure wool fabric has high resilience and can recover quickly, while blended or chemical fiber products are less wrinkle-resistant, mostly leaving more obvious crease traces, or slow recovery.
4 Burning method identification
Take a bunch of yarn, burn with fire, pure wool fiber smell like burning hair, chemical fiber fabric smell like burning plastic. The harder the particles after burning, the more chemical fiber components.
5 Single identification
If it is a long hair fabric, just take a hair like the picture above and rub it a few times to move up or down (in order to master this skill, you can first take a hair to test), if it is an ordinary fabric, take a yarn, cut 2 cm of two sections into one by one fiber and rub it in your hand four or five times to see if they will move.
The reason for the wool shiny
1 the wool fiber surface of the horny scale layer tissue part is worn;
2 dust and dirt light abrasion and staining in the weave groove, so that the surface of the fabric into a sheep slip, causing regular refraction of light, and appear bright.
Removal of shiny method
1, you can twist the bread into powder and lay it on the shiny place, use an iron to iron it;
2、Acid wash: soak in glacial acetic acid solution with a concentration of 3-5% and a temperature of 50℃ for 3-5 minutes, and then rinse with clean water. White vinegar is also available.
3、Wash with a brush method.
Wool Blend Fabric
Wool blended fabric, i.e. cashmere, polyester, spandex, rabbit wool and other fibers are mixed with wool to make fabric. Wool and polyester blended fabric, under the sunlight, the surface has flash off point, the fabric is stiff with board hard feeling, good elasticity, hold the fabric tightly and then loosen, almost no wrinkle.
Main types
1 Rabbit fur
Generally, a certain proportion of rabbit hair and wool are blended and woven. The characteristics of rabbit hair sweater are fine fiber, smooth and sticky hand, fluttering surface fluff, soft color, good fluffiness, comfortable and dashing wearing, easy to shed surface fluff in wearing, and better warmth than wool clothing.
2 Chemical fiber wool
The common feature of clothing is lighter. Fiber breaking strength than wool fibers, will not be insects, but its elastic recovery rate is lower than wool, warmth is not as pure wool sweater, cheap, but easy to pilling.
3 Animal hair and chemical fiber blended wool
With the “complementary characteristics” of various animal wool and chemical fiber, its appearance has a sense of wool, tensile strength is improved, reducing the cost of sweaters, is a good product at low cost. However, in blended sweaters, there is a problem that the dyeing and color absorption ability of different types of fibers are different, resulting in unsatisfactory dyeing effect.
Pure chemical fiber imitation wool material
With the natural style characteristics of natural fibers. Bright color and luster, good Guanze degree, stiff, elastic, suitable for the public. Chemical fiber type wool, the common characteristic of the garment is lighter. Fiber breaking strength than wool fibers, will not insects, but its elastic recovery rate is lower than wool, warmth is not as good as pure wool sweaters, cheap, but easy to pilling. Animal hair and chemical fiber blended wool, with a variety of animal hair and chemical fiber “complementary characteristics”, its appearance has a sense of wool, tensile strength has been improved, reducing the cost of sweaters, is a good product at a low price.
Distinguish between chemical fiber imitation wool material and pure wool fabric
1 Different luster
Most of the pure wool fabrics are soft and natural, less colorful, while the chemical fiber imitation wool fabrics are rich and bright, if you look carefully in the sunlight, you will often see glittering and blinding light. This is difficult to distinguish for the imitation wool cool like wool fabrics.
2 Feel and elasticity are different
Pure wool fabric feels soft, slightly plush, with body bones, slightly live wrinkles but not hard, rebound soft and not straight; and polyester, imitation wool, although in appearance like wool, but feel soft and smooth, no body bones, wrinkles, rebound slow.
Artificial fiber imitation wool material
Due to the practical performance and manufacturing cost problems of this type of fiber, the production is very small. It is dull and lacking in stiffness, and due to the poor elasticity, it is easy to have wrinkles, and they do not disappear easily. Man-made fibers are divided into two kinds of recycled fibers and chemical fibers, where the recycled fibers are made of wood, grass fibers by chemical processing of viscose fibers; chemical fibers are synthetic fibers made of oil, natural gas, coal and agricultural by-products as raw materials. According to the shape and use of man-made fibers, divided into rayon, rayon and artificial wool three.
Mercerized wool
Mercerized wool is ordinary wool that has been chemically and physically treated to destroy the scales of the wool fibers, and chemically tested to make the wool smooth, shiny, and shrink-proof when washed for wedding dresses. Mercerized wool is a wool product that has been treated with a mercerization process as part of the textile dyeing and finishing process. The wool is treated with BasolanDC chloride or protease to destroy the scales on the surface of the wool and reduce the difference between the coefficient of friction of the wool in the forward and reverse directions. Mercerized wool can be spun pure or blended. The main characteristics are anti-shrinkage, machine washable, and anti-pilling.
Cotton and linen fiber
Advantages: soft and elastic feel, soft and natural luster, comfortable and beautiful to wear, feel more high-grade, good moisture absorption, not easy to conduct heat, good warmth, wrinkle resistance, especially in the garment processing after ironing has a good tuck molding and garment conformability.
Caution: the washing temperature should not be too high, avoid scrubbing and wringing, avoid sun exposure. Ironing points: wet ironing method, from the reverse side of the garment will be ironed dry. Disadvantages: not resistant to alkali, shrinkage, easy to wrinkle.
T/R fabric (polyester/viscose blend)
T/R fabric is a polyester/viscose blend. Polyester-viscose blend is a complementary blend. Advantages: firm, wrinkle resistant, dimensionally stable, washable and wearable. Can improve the breathability of the fabric, reduce the pilling and anti-static phenomenon.
Washing points: washing machine washable, do not use brush to avoid pilling, reverse drying.
High-density NC
High-density NC fabric is a fabric made of nylon and cotton yarn blended or interwoven, which combines the advantages of nylon and cotton yarn. The abrasion resistance of nylon ranks first among natural and chemical fibers, the moisture absorption of nylon is good, and its wearing comfort and dyeing performance is better than polyester, so nylon and cotton yarn blending or interweaving will not reduce the moisture absorption and wearing comfort of cotton yarn, nylon is lighter, while cotton yarn is heavier, the two interweaving or blending can reduce the weight of the fabric; nylon has excellent elasticity, and after blending or interweaving with cotton yarn, the elasticity of the fabric is improved. The disadvantage of the fabric is: as nylon is involved in interweaving or blending, the heat resistance and light resistance of the fabric is poor, and attention should be paid to the washing and ironing conditions in the process of use to avoid damage. Its most notable style features: not easy to wear, soft and comfortable, easy to clean. Not to be burnt in the sun, not to be wrung out.
