The original organization of woven fabrics includes three kinds of plain, twill and satin. Various variations, joint tissues, complex tissues, and jacquard tissues are changed and combined on the basis of these three, and are also called “three original tissues”.
Plain Tissue
The tissue interwoven by warp and weft yarns is called plain weave.
Plain Tissue Fabric Features
①The most number of interweaving (points), so that the fabric is firm, wear-resistant, hard to the touch, less elastic and less luster.
Because the warp and weft yarns of the plain tissue are interlaced every other one, so the same number of warp and weft yarns are arranged in the surface, the most interweaving times, the most yarn flexion, and the shortest floating length line. Make the fabric firm, wear-resistant, stiff, flat, but less elastic, luster is weak. Because of the warp and weft yarn interweaving more times, the yarn is not easy to rely on too close, and thus the density of the fabric is generally not too large.
②The appearance effect of front and back side is the same, the surface is flat and the pattern is monotonous.
③In the same specification, it is the lightest and thinnest compared with other tissue fabrics.
④Fabric is not easy to wear hair, good anti-hooking performance.
⑤ Minimal weaveable density (poor denseness), easy to disassemble.
Because of the warp and weft yarn interweaving times, the yarn is not easy to rely on too close, so the density of the fabric is generally not too large.
Common plain fabrics
Cotton fabric varieties: plain cloth, poplin.
Woolen fabric varieties: vanadine, pailleys, thin tweed.
Silk fabric varieties: power spinning, georgette, taffeta, double crepe.
hemp fabric varieties: summer cloth, linen.
Chemical fiber fabric varieties: cotton cloth (viscose fiber flat cloth), polyester spinning, etc.
Special effect of plain fabric
Plain fabrics belong to the same surface organization, and generally the warp and weft organization points are in the same line on the fabric surface, but when some parameters of the fabric are changed, the plain pattern will also present some special appearance.
The warp and weft counts are similar, and the warp density is much greater than the weft density, presenting horizontal stripes.
The warp yarn is fine and the weft yarn is coarse, showing horizontal stripes.
The warp yarn is thick, the weft yarn is thin, and there are longitudinal stripes.
The configuration of yarns with different twist levels creates a wrinkling effect.
Spaced configuration of thick and thin yarns to form a striped or checkered effect.
Yarns of different colors are configured to produce a brilliant and colorful strip and check effect.
Different warp beam feeding amounts of two warp beams produce the appearance of bubble yarn.
The combination of Z and S twist will produce hidden strip and hidden plaid effects.
Thinning pattern effect: change of reed threading
Ragged effect
Twill tissue
The warp tissue point (or weft tissue point) continuous into a diagonal tissue is called twill tissue
According to the direction of the grain, those who point from the lower left to the upper right are indicated by the right oblique grain, and those who point from the lower right to the upper left are indicated by the left oblique grain.
Twill fabric characteristics
Twill fabric compared with plain fabric, less interweaving points in the tissue cycle, there are floating long lines, the fabric can be dense (that is, twill fabric compared with plain fabric, warp, weft yarn density can be larger), the fabric is soft, better luster, fastness is not as good as plain.
The appearance of the front and back is different, such as the front, the reverse side
The number of interweaving is less than plain, the fabric feels softer.
Gloss, elasticity, wrinkle resistance is better than plain.
Abrasion resistance, firmness is not as good as plain fabric
Common twill fabrics
Cotton fabrics: twill, khaki, denim.
Woolen fabrics: beige, wada tweed, what flavor tweed, uniform tweed.
Silk fabrics: silk twill silk, beautiful silk, etc
The effect of yarn twist direction on the appearance of the fabric
Reflective band: Each yarn (silk) segment floating on the surface of the fabric can see the reflection of the fiber in a certain area under the light irradiation, and the reflective part of each fiber is arranged into a band, which is called reflective band.
Satin tissue
Interleaving of warp and weft yarns occurs only once every four or more yarn intervals, and these interweaving points are separate, mutually discontinuous, and evenly distributed within a tissue loop. The fabric surface is classified as having long warp or weft floating lengths of threads.
Warp satin pattern: warp tissue points more than weft tissue points. Or the front side of the fabric showing the long warp floating is called warp satin.
Weft satin pattern: weft tissue point more than the warp tissue point. Or the front of the fabric showing weft floating long mostly called weft satin.
Satin fabric features
The surface of satin fabric is flat, smooth and lustrous. The appearance of the front and back side is different, each presenting a yarn. Because the longer floating thread can form a shiny surface, it is easier to reflect light, especially when using bright, twisted very small filament yarn, this effect is more intense.
Because the satin interweaving points are far apart, the separate organization points are covered by the floating long lines on both sides, the front side can not see the obvious interweaving points, so there are the following characteristics.
warp or weft yarn floating line long easy to rub lint, hooking.
warp and weft yarn interweaving point at least, can weave the maximum density, satin fabric than plain, twill thick, soft texture, good drapability.
Smooth and even surface, rich luster.
Types of common satin fabrics
Woolen fabric: dress tweed.
Cotton fabrics: horizontal tribute satin, straight tribute satin.
Silk fabrics: plain crepe satin, brocade satin, soft satin.
